Le Figaro tested the 15 restaurants in preparation for the Parisian return to school

Nothing is more delicate than moving a restaurant. Half the time, the restaurant loses in soul what it thinks it gains in furniture. The Pantagruel is on the right side of audacity, abandoning, this fall, its four small walls in Sentier (now the Panurge ) to succeed what was, in turn, Chez Pierre, the Zébulon, the Aube. This time could well be the (very) good one, because if the double-decoration room, certainly hushed, gets a bit tangled up in colors and drapes, Jason Gouzy's stoves are free in volume and amplitude and impress by cultivating a rare cuisine of variation. An often tricky exercise that wraps, here, around the spider crab from Guilvinec, the Breton lobster, the meager Corsican, the pigeon from Gâtinais and the last Provençal melons. Each one, the other, treated in turn as a trilogy, twirling in textures, cooking methods, sauces, land and sea and the emotions we get from them, sometimes at the risk of overdoing it a little. Pantagruel has...