Brushstrokes of the colours of Italy on Miyake's pleats

(by Beatrice Campani) A touch of green that recalls the shutters of the houses in the historic center of Genoa, but also the blue navy that paints the boats moored in the port and all the shades of pink that color the houses of the Cinque Terre. And then the palette of greens of the Tuscan landscapes between Florence, Pisa and Lucca, the greys of the skyscrapers of Milan, the Venetian red and the typical brown tones of the lagoon. The creative team of the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake brand, founded in 2013 and hosted of honor at Pitti Uomo 108, he sampled 200 colors while traveling for Italy from North to South thinking about designing the collection spring/summer 2026 which this evening was shown in the garden of the Medici villa La Petraia in Florence. Everything revolves around this chromatic research, so much so that even the invitation to the show holds a small brush from painter. From the research 39 colours were then selected, which have become the fulcrum of the entire creative process. 'Amid 'Impasto of Horizons' is the name given to the collection, with looks from men's and women's, which draws inspiration from natural landscapes and cultural heritage of Italy. It is a rainbow of colors that contaminates the iconic pleat, made in Japan with machinery highly specialized that make the fabric soft and easy drying. It is a polyester jersey that gives over 10 years it is worked in an infinite number of models that constitute the iconic pieces of each collection, designed for last over time. The maison explains that an item of a collection from 10 years ago can easily be paired with one from a more recent, each look is designed to last over time. At Villa La Petraia iconic models and new arrivals were on show, including the one-shoulder, multi-pocket vest, designed for the modern painter (with lots of pockets for brushes), but also for today's man, who needs many compartments to store objects. Then single-breasted and double-breasted jackets with the iconic pleating, and the bag that transforms into a trench coat (a part of collection includes functional garments). There is also a line tailored with a linen-like texture that does not cling to the skin, but with a compact structure that makes it possible creating cleaner, more defined silhouettes. Brush strokes of colour, shaded effects or flashes of bright colors, such as lemon yellow, a tribute to Italy. The The Italian stage is just the first step of the new Open project Studio, with which the brand will travel around the world for present his pieces in various places around the world, investigating different cultures and countries. Inside the villa La Petraia a meeting was also organised an exhibition that offers a look behind the scenes of the studio creative, or how to create a collection of this type. Designed by the Misawa Design Institute of the Nippon Design Center, The exhibition offers an overview of the research work and development that led to the creation of the S/S collection 2026, along with technological innovations in pleating.